Tartans

Everyone is familiar with the kilt worn by Scottish Regiments, Pipe-bands and many Scotsmen. The ancient dress of the Scottish Highlander, however, was not a kilt of this type, but a belted plaid. This plaid (the féileadh-mór or great wrap) was a generous length of tartan cloth about 16-18 feet long and 6 feet wide. The upper portion covered the wearer’s shoulders. It was belted at the waist and the lower portion hung down to the knees.

By the early part of the eighteenth century the lower half of the belted plaid (the féileadh-beag or “little wrap”) was in general use as a kilt. And since then the kilt has been the traditional garb of the Highlander as regimental uniform, at Highland games and outdoor activities, on special occasions and of course, as everyday wear.

At present day there is no doubt about the lasting popularity of tartan. One can have too much in the way of mass-produced tartan-decorated souvenirs, but as a dress material tartan has an enduring appeal.

Clans

A clan is traditionally a family or group from the Scottish highlands, these families shared or claimed to share their descent from a common ancestor. The head of the group was the living ‘representer’ of this ancestor and as such he was chief of the clan. To him the clansmen owe loyalty and respect. They accepted his jurisdiction over their daily affairs and responded to his summons in the time of battle.

In each clan district weavers produced a distinct local tartan pattern or “sett”. Thus members of the same clan probably wore the particular tartan woven and dyed in their own neighbourhood.

In the late eighteenth and early nineteenth century there was a great revival of Scottish national feeling. Robert burns, Scotland’s national poet, wrote “Scots Wha Hae”, which served as Scotland’s national anthem for many years.  Even more important was the influence of Sir Walter Scott, a Scottish historic novelist and poet. Scott wrote such novels as “Waverly” and “Rob Roy”, which were a catalyst in promoting interest in Scottish scenery and to arouse an admiration for the highlander as noble and romantic figure. The literary movement was complimented by the works of Sir Henry Raeburn, a portrait painter who created magnificent tartan-clad chiefs, such as “Alasdair Ranaldson MacDonell of Glengarry.”